This plot is an illustration of a significant research finding regarding waves on coral reefs. It demonstrates non-linear energy transformation from incident wind waves (top) to long-period seiching, or "sloshing" of the reef basin. It turns out that, during typhoons, the currents associated with the seiching have much more of an impact on coastal structures than the more obvious, and much higher, wind waves. For a complete description, click below to read the paper:
"Measured Transformation of Deep Water Wave Spectra Across a Shallow Coral Reef Flat"
Results of Monitoring Study Agat Harbor, Guam (Large pdf file, please wait for download to complete)
Agat Small Boat Harbor, Guam: Monitoring Plan